How to buy a diamond

When you are researching possible diamonds to buy, retailers will talk about Hearts and Arrows cut diamonds.

So, what are these?

First and foremost, it is important to realize that very few diamonds are hearts and arrows cut.

Hearts and Arrows is a visual phenomenon that occurs in only the very best cut diamonds, which conform to the ideal parameters for round brilliant cut stones. A series of 8 hearts and 8 arrows is visible in the stone under magnification, meaning that the facets within the diamond are perfectly aligned with the end result being enhanced brilliance and sparkle.

You’ll generally find that a diamond has to be graded “triple excellent” (excellent symmetry, polish and cut) for it to have H&A, but that’s not to say that all triple excellent diamonds are H&A.

Some diamond laboratories such as the EGL do refer to H&A, whilst others such as the GIA which requires only the GIA report, for example do not.
Why aren’t all diamonds cut to this standard? Well, the answer to this is time, money and skill. Not all diamond cutters in the world can cut to the required precision for H&A. Those that can will spend 20% more time on a H&A stone than other standard cuts, whilst they will also have incur more wastage from the diamond in striving to achieve that level of perfection. Being as most diamond cutters are paid by the piece, it doesn’t really make financial sense for them to do it.

The beauty of these diamonds, however, is unquestionable. Yes, you’ll pay a slight premium for these stones, but, oh, it is so worth it.

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